Volume 22, no 2

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    RESEARCH ON DEVELOPING A SIZE SYSTEM AND DESIGNING SHOE LASTS FOR MEN WITH DIABETES IN VIETNAM
    • Pages 75-86
      Van-Huan BUI1, *, Thi-Kien-Chung CAO2, Duy-Nam PHAN1
      • 1School of Textile – Leather and Fashion, Hanoi University of Science and Technology, No. 1, Dai Co Viet, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi, Vietnam
      • 2Faculty of Garment Technology and Fashion Design, Hung Yen University of Technology and Education, Dan Tien, Khoai Chau, Hung Yen, Vietnam

      ABSTRACT. This paper presents the method and results of developing a shoe last sizing system on the basis of the foot parameter system, designing shoe lasts for men with diabetes in Vietnam. Diabetic patients often have foot complications and need to use extra depth shoes or custom shoes to protect their feet and prevent foot ulcers. The parameters of 5 shoe last sizes by length and 3 sizes by width according to the French sizing system have been developed. The results show that the shoe last parameters for men with diabetes are much larger than those for healthy men, especially the ball girth and width are larger by about 20 mm and 5 mm, respectively. Afterward, shoe lasts were designed and modified using 3D CAD tools for style, fit and comfort specifically suited for men with diabetes. Using shoe last design software, 3D printing technology to design and fabricate a shoe last, the proposed approach proved the viability of designing and manufacturing extra depth shoes for men with diabetes in Vietnam.

      KEY WORDS: shoe lasts, sizing system, extra depth diabetic shoes
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    3D MODELLING OF CUSTOMIZED LASTS BASED ON ANTHROPOMETRIC DATA ACQUIRED FROM 3D FOOT SCANNING – ONE CASE STUDY
    • Pages 87-100
      Mariana COSTEA*, Aura MIHAI, Arina SEUL
      • "Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Industrial Design and Business Management, 28 Mangeron, 700050, Iasi, Romania, mariana.costea@academic.tuiasi.ro, aura.mihai@academic.tuiasi.ro, arina.seul@academic.tuiasi.ro

      ABSTRACT. Designing and manufacturing personalized lasts are the first steps in obtaining the right fitted footwear for various users, especially for sports or/and medical purposes. The accurate dimensional relationship between foot and last represents the key element for this activity. The critical shape of the last should always be determined by the shape of the foot and the cumulative relationship between lengths, widths, heights and girths, whatever method is used. Some corrections and constraints must always be considered because the shoe-last is not identical to the foot. The foot anthropometric measurements are modified based on biomechanical constraints and technological limitations and they are interactively transformed into last’s dimensions by using 3D modelling. The present study brings together the modern scanning technique with the new methodology for modifying a reference last, and it is aimed to explore the philosophy of re-designing functional lasts. It also tests and highlights the limits of the actual methodology for shoe-last virtual prototyping based on anthropometric data acquired from a commercially available 3D foot scanning system.

      KEY WORDS: shoe last, footwear, 3D modelling, manufacturing customized lasts
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    EVALUATION OF PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF LEATHER ON THE BATING PROCESS BY COMBINATION OF PAPAIN ENZYME WITH SURFACTANT
    • Pages 101-106
      Mohammad Zainal ABIDIN1, *, Ragil YULIATMO2, Gresy GRIYANITASARI3
      • 1Laboratory of Leather, Waste, and Animal By-products Technology, Department of Animal Product Technology, Faculty of Animal Science, University of Gadjah Mada, Bulaksumur, Yogyakarta, 55281, Indonesia, m.zainal.abidin@ugm.ac.id
      • 2Department of Leather Processing Technology, Politeknik ATK, Yogyakarta, 55188, Indonesia, ragilyuliatmo@atk.ac.id
      • 3Center for Leather, Rubber and Plastics, Ministry of Industry, Jl. Sokonandi No. 9, Yogyakarta, 55166, Indonesia, gresygriyanitasari@gmail.com

      ABSTRACT. Bating is one of the important stages in the tanning process that has a role as a determinant of leather properties. It is commonly carried out with the assistance of protease enzymes such as papain. By using surfactants, sorbitol and Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (SDS), it can help the penetration of enzymes into the skin or hides. Thereby, the study aimed to evaluate the use of papain on the bating process of kacang goat skin by assisted surfactants. Accordingly, three different concentrations (1, 1.5, & 2%) of enzymes were added with two different types of surfactants (SDS and Sorbitol) for the bating process. For the result, the leather was evaluated based on physical properties and histology studies. The presence of surfactant in the bating process improves the absorption of papain towards the hydrolysis of non-collagenous proteins. Based on the physical properties and histology studies, they perform better than leather without surfactant agents. Cleary, the surfactant agents can be used as bating auxiliary.

      KEY WORDS: bating, papain, surfactant, kacang goat skin, physical properties
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    THE USE OF THE FUZZY INFERENCE SYSTEM IN DETERMINING THE QUALITY OF GOATSKIN AS RAW MATERIAL FOR THE LEATHER INDUSTRY
    • Pages 107-118
      Sri MUTIAR1, Anwar KASIM2, *, EMRIADI3, Alfi ASBEN2
      • 1Program Study of Agricultural Technology, Dharma Andalas University, Padang, 25163, Indonesia
      • 2Faculty of Agricultural Technology, Andalas University, Padang, 25163, Indonesia
      • 3Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, Andalas University, Padang, 25163, Indonesia

      ABSTRACT. Leather products are affected by the quality of the raw hide, the pre-treatment, and the tanning process. Furthermore, some leather products use quality goatskins with the right determination as raw materials. This study aims to determine the quality of goatskin through the use of Fuzzy Logic science. It was conducted using the Sugeno Fuzzy Inference System (FIS), while data analysis was carried out through the Matlab R2018a program. The criteria for using this method were the factors that affected the quality of raw goatskin such as thickness, length of the backline, skin area, number of scratches on the skin, number of holes, presence of boils, lice bumps, and hair loss. The results of the analysis showed that Sugeno FIS could be used to help determine the quality of goatskin with a good accuracy level with a MAPE value of 18%. Furthermore, the FIS method could be used as an appropriate modeling system for determining the quality of goatskin as a raw material for the leather tanning industry.

      KEY WORDS: expert decision, quality of goatskin, tanning industry
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    FUR SKIN – A VALUABLE MATERIAL, CONSIDERATIONS ON QUALITY ASSESSMENT
    • Pages 119-130
      Carmen GAIDĂU1, Elisavet AMANATIDOU2, *, Stoica TONEA3
      • 1National Research & Development Institute for Textiles and Leather – Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Bucharest, 031215, Romania, carmen.gaidau@icpi.ro
      • 2University of Western Macedonia, Chemical Engineering Department, Environmental Chemistry & Water and Waste Water Treatment Laboratory, Koila Kozanis, 501 50, Kozani, Greece, eamanatidou@teiwm.gr
      • 3S.C. Taro Comimpex S.R.L., Int. Giurgiului, 28A, Com. Jilava, Ilfov, Jilava 077120, Romania, tarocomimpex@yahoo.com

      ABSTRACT. This work is intended to reveal the most important physico-chemical and physico-mechanical characteristics of the fur skins that determine their quality. Values of these characteristics are discussed as depending on the semifinished product related to technological significance and consequence for the user. The main characteristics and values for fine furs are proposed, thus providing some guidelines in evaluating their quality. Investigations in this field can lead to the determination of some new quality characteristics of woolen sheepskins and fine furs. A case study on fine and common furskins is presented and reveals the uniqueness and versatility of the combination of two protein layers, represented by natural furs, composed of collagen and keratin, unmatched by any synthetic material.

      KEY WORDS: woolen sheepskin, fine furs, quality evaluation
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    MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF WET BLUE FOLLOWING ACID BATING PROCESS TREATED WITH CRUDE ENZYME FROM Rhizopus oligosporus
    • Pages 131-138
      Aditya Wahyu NUGRAHA1, *, Ono SUPARNO2, Nastiti Siswi INDRASTI2, Hoerudin HOERUDIN3
      • 1Department of Agro-industrial Technology, Institut Teknologi Sumatera, Jl. Terusan Ryacudu, Way Hui, South Lampung, Lampung, Indonesia, 35365, aditya.nugraha@tip.itera.ac.id
      • 2Department of Agro-industrial Technology, IPB University, Dramaga, Bogor, West Java, Indonesia, ono.suparno@gmail.com, nastiti.indrasti@gmail.com
      • 3Indonesian Center for Agricultural Postharvest Research and Development, Bogor, West Java, Indonesia, d.hoerudin@gmail.com

      ABSTRACT. Enzyme is one of the ingredients used in several tanning processes such as bating. Bating is generally conducted under alkaline conditions, but it can also be carried out under acidic conditions. This study aimed to evaluate mechanical and physical properties of wet blue following bating conducted under acidic conditions treated with enzymes synthesized by R. oligosporus compared to those of the conventional process. This study was arranged on a completely randomized design with a single factor, i.e., five levels of enzyme activity (0, 2.5, 5, 7.5, and 10 U mL-1). The results showed that the use of enzymes from R. oligosporus influenced positively mechanical properties of the wet blue produced. Increasing levels of enzyme activity produced significantly higher tear strength and lower elongation at break values. No significant differences in tensile strength were observed following applications of both the synthesized and conventional enzymes. The synthesized enzyme was best applied at an activity level of 5 U mL-1 producing leather with good tear strength (55.40 ± 5.49 N mm-1) and elongation at break (45.63 ± 4.17 %) values, which were significantly different from those of 0 U mL-1, but not significantly different from those of 10 U mL-1 and the conventional process. Mechanical properties of the leather produced met the standard values for goat/ sheep leather jacket as specified in Indonesian National Standard (SNI) 4593:2011. The results suggest that the synthesized enzyme from R. oligosporus can potentially replace the conventional enzyme commonly used in the bating process.

      KEY WORDS: mechanical properties, wet blue, enzyme, R. oligosporus, bating
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    PRELIMINARY STUDY ON THE ADHESIVENESS PROPERTIES OF HIDE GLUE
    • Pages 139-144
      Lucreția MIU*, Mihaela NICULESCU
      • National Research & Development Institute for Textiles and Leather – Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Bucharest, 031215, Romania, lucretiamiu@yahoo.com

      ABSTRACT. Adhesives based on collagen extracted from the skin, tendons, cartilage, bones of animals and fish have been widely used over time as binders and consolidating agents for various organic and inorganic materials. The use of these types of adhesives or glues or gelatins in the restoration activity has been practiced by restorers due to their properties, but also to the special requirements of reversibility of treatments that are stipulated in national and international norms specific to the restoration of heritage objects. For this purpose, the technology of gelatin extraction from bovine hide was studied, and then gelatins were characterized in terms of chemical properties (ash, total nitrogen, amino nitrogen, dermal substance, pH of analytical solution) and gluing experiments were conducted on collagen substrates (leather and parchment, newly made specifically for the restoration activity and some samples of historical parchment, pieces of parchment detached from the back of a heritage object) and characterized in terms of physical-mechanical properties (shear strength and peel strength). Gelatins made from bovine hide were also compared to a commercial product, rabbit glue, a material frequently used in the field of restoration.

      KEY WORDS: raw hide, glue/adhesive, gelatin, wood restoration, book restoration, parchment restoration
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