Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 19, no 4

Contents
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Analysis of footwear business development strategy using QSPM and SWOT analysis
- Pages 167-176
  Syufriadi IBRAHIM¹*, Dodik Ridho NURROCHMAT², Agus MAULANA¹
  - ¹Management and Business, School of Business, IPB University, 16151, Indonesia
  - ²Department of Forest Management, Faculty of Forestry, IPB University Bogor, 16680, Indonesia
  ABSTRACT. The main objective of this research is to analyze the strategy of developing the footwear business. Case studies were carried out at CV Hikmah Shoes Bogor. The initial analysis was carried out by identifying the business of the ongoing CV Hikmah shoe model and analyzing the external and internal scope to identify problems that occurred in the company. The descriptive method used to identify CV Hikmah Shoes Bogor using, Internal Factor Matrix (IFE) and External Factor Evaluation (EFE) used to analyze internal and external factors at CV Hikmah Shoes Bogor. SWOT matrix selected to determine the strategy to be implemented and Quantitative Strategy Planning Matrix (QSPM) is used as a process to determine strategic priorities for the company. The results of the SWOT Matrix in this study produced six alternative strategies which were chosen as development strategies at CV Hikmah Shoes Bogor. The best strategy is taken in developing the footwear business strategy, maximizing promotion and marketing using social media or e-commerce and continuing with the improvement business.
  
  KEY WORDS: IFE, EFE, QSPM, SWOT Matrix
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Experiments to obtain new bioproducts based on protein extracts from wet-white leather waste intended for the total or partial replacement of phenol formaldehyde resins in wet finishing of leather
- Pages 177-188
  Marian CRUDU¹*, Marian DEACONU², Melinda PRUNEANU³, Andra Manuela CONSTANTIN¹, Dana GURAU¹
  - ¹INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu, Bucharest
  - ²ICECHIM Bucharest
  - ³"Gh. Asachi" Technical University of Iasi
  ABSTRACT. Leather retanning is a key operation in the wet finishing stage, playing a very important role in diversification of assortments, but at the same time using complex chemicals can induce important eco-toxic effects especially in the liquid effluents (residual float). This paper presents some of the achievements related to the expansion of eco-friendly auxiliary product range for wet finishing of leather (filling-retanning) with predominantly natural (protein) components, combined with metal oxides other than Cr2O3 and without phenolic compounds, concomitantly with the leather industry's advance towards circular economy and increasing eco-efficiency. An experimental model was developed for functionalization of collagenic materials obtained by acid hydrolysis of pre-tanned wet-white bovine hide waste in order to obtain new bioproducts intended for the replacement of phenolic compounds for wet finishing of leather (filling-retanning).
  
  KEY WORDS: leather waste, circular economy, retanning products
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The quality of rabbit hide tanned by mangrove (Rhizopora mucronata)
- Pages 189-194
  Wehandaka PANCAPALAGA*, Suyatno NITIHARJO
  - Faculty of Agriculture and Animal Husbandry, University of Muhammadiyah Malang, Indonesia, Jalan Raya Tlogomas 246 Malang, email: pancapalaga1966@gmail.com
  ABSTRACT. Mangrove stem (Rhizopora mucronata) contains a tannin compound which has potential as tanning material as well as tanner leather coloring. Meanwhile, the public uses more tannin from mimosa tannin and has not optimized the use of mangrove tannins. This study aimed to determine the quality of rabbit hide tanned from mangrove tannin and mimosa tannin. The material used was Rex rabbit hide of 1-year age cut. The research method used a completely random design (CRD) experiment. The treatment ratio of mangrove stem tannin and tannin mimosa concentration were 0:30%, 10:20%, 20:10% and 30%:0. The parameters measured by chemical properties consist of: degree of tanning, moisture, ash and tannin bound to the skin. Physical properties consisted of: tensile strength, elongation and sewing strength. The results showed that the use of mangrove tannin and mimosa tannin for tanning ratios had no significant effect (P> 0.05) on the level of tanning, moisture, ash, and tannin that were bound to tanned skin, tensile strength, elongation and sewing strength. The results showed that the quality of tanned hide had a tanning degree of 62.31%, 13.32% moisture content, 1.57% ash content, and 25.14% tannin content. The physical quality of tensile strength was 356.35 N/cm, elongation was 29.80% and sewing strength is 84.41 Kg/cm. The results of the quality of this tanned hide had fulfilled SNI 06-6121-1999 of leather goods. The conclusion was that tannin extract from mangroves can be used as vegetable tanning agent, with the same quality as mimosa tanning agent.
  
  KEY WORDS: mangrove tannin, mimosa tannin, rabbit hide, quality of hide
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Application of oxazolidine in wet-white tanning
- Pages 195-200
  Vania F.M. SILVA*, Antonio CRISPIM, Gilberto PINTO
  CIETI/ISEP - Centre of Innovation on Engineering and Industrial Technology/IPP School of Engineering, Rua Dr. Antonio Bernardino de Almeida, 831, 4200-072 Porto, Portugal
  
  ABSTRACT. The commitment to sustainable development has been one of the main concerns of the world. In this sense, this work aims to develop a process for the application of oxazolidine in wet-white tanning and its viability for increasing the thermal stability of leather, reducing in this way the environmental impact of the tanning process. In order to achieve the higher shrinkage temperature, different parameters have been tested, such as time of reaction of the gluteraldehyde; the time of reaction and concentration of oxazolidine; the effect of synthetic and vegetable tannins at different conditions. Important conclusions were achieved, such as the direct relation between thermal stability and oxazolidine concentration, and the direct relation with the application time of tannins. The main result, a shrinkage temperature of 84.2℃, was obtained with a concentration of 6% w/w of oxazolidine and a contact time of 8 hours. Although the shrinkage temperature is high, there are still many improvements that must be done to achieve higher stability and then be exported to a pilot scale.
  
  KEY WORDS: oxazolidine, shrinkage temperature, glutaraldehyde, leather
  
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Antifungal and antibacterial treatments based on natural compounds for lining leather and footwear articles
- Pages 201-216
  Mariana Daniela BERECHET¹*, Roxana Rodica CONSTANTINESCU¹, Maria RAPA², Corina CHIRILA¹, Maria STANCA¹, Demetra SIMION¹, Lilioara SURDU³, Dana Florentina GURAU¹
  - ¹INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, 031215, Romania, marianadanielaberechet@yahoo.co.uk
  - ²Polytechnic University of Bucharest
  - ³National Research and Development Institute for Textiles and Leather (INCDTP), Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. The purpose of this research is to obtain antifungal and antibacterial treatments based on natural compounds of essential oils of geranium, pine, and rosemary for cotton and leather linings to make leather, fur articles, and footwear. The main characteristic absorption bands for the functional groups of geranium, pine and rosemary essential oils were investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopyattenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR). Microbiological antifungal test was performed in the presence of Candida albicans ATCC 10231 fungus and antibacterial activity was determined in the presence of Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923 (Gram-positive bacteria), and Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 (Gram-negative bacteria). The absorption method involved the inoculation of the bacteriological test inoculum directly on the treated samples. Microbiological tests have revealed a high antifungal and antibacterial activity of the essential oils of Aetheroleum pini sylvestris, Aetheroleum geranii, Rosmarinus officinalis on cotton and leather linings and the possibility to be used in various compositions for the treatment of different lining materials for gloves, caps, shoes or other articles with essential bioactive properties for health and environmental protection.
  
  KEY WORDS: natural compounds, antifungal and antibacterial treatments, cotton cloth lining, leather lining, health and environmental protection
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Cleaner leather tanning process using gambir: the influence of rebating on the properties of leather
- Pages 217-226
  Gresy GRIYANITASARI¹*, Dona RAHMAWATI¹, SUGIHARTONO¹, Yuny ERWANTO²
  - ¹Center for Leather, Rubber, and Plastics, Ministry of Industry, Jl. Sokonandi no. 9 Yogyakarta 55166, Indonesia
  - ²Department of Animal Product Technology, Faculty of Animal Science, Universitas Gadjah Mada Jl. Flora No. 1, Bulaksumur Yogyakarta 55281, Indonesia
  ABSTRACT. Gambir (Uncaria gambir) is a traditional plant from West Sumatera, Indonesia. Containing condensed tannin, gambir could be used as vegetable tanning agent in the leather making process. Sheepskin is usually used as materials for garment leather. Some industries in Indonesia use pickled sheepskin as raw material for the next process that the previous bating process is uncontrolled. Therefore, this study aims to determine the effect of rebating in the repickle stage on the leather tanned with Uncaria gambir. For alum-gambir tanned leather, rebating increased its softness, tear strength, and hydrothermal stability, while for glutaraldehyde-gambir tanned leather, rebating increased its tensile strength, degree of tannage, and tannin bound. The broad DSC peak revealed that the distribution of collagen molecules of all samples was unequal. Rebating could increase and decrease the quality of leather.
  
  KEY WORDS: sheep leather, bating, vegetable tanning, gambir
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Antibacterial nanocompound based on silicone rubber. Part II - biological characterisation
- Pages 227-232
  Mihaela NITUICA (VILSAN)¹*, Maria SONMEZ¹, Mihai GEORGESCU¹, Maria Daniela STELESCU¹, Laurentia ALEXANDRESCU¹, Dana GURAU¹, Carmen CURUTIU^2,3, Lia Maria DITU^2,3
  - ¹INCDTP - Division Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., sector 3, Bucharest, mihaela.nituica@icpi.ro, mihaelavilsan@yahoo.com
  - ²University of Bucharest, Faculty of Biology, 1-3 Portocalelor St., 6th district, 060101, Bucharest, Romania
  - ³Research Institute of University of Bucharest, 36-46 M. Kogalniceanu St., 5th district, 050107, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. The aim of this work is to characterize an antibacterial polymeric nanocompound based on silicone elastomer (silicone rubber), reinforced with TiO₂ nanoparticles, crosslinked with dicumyl peroxide (PD). The antibacterial polymer nanocompound was obtained by vulcanization on a laboratory roll (vulcanization is a main step, with a major impact on the final properties of the products), in the form of a 3-5 mm sheet, in order to be biologically characterized, as well as physico-mechanically and morpho-structurally characterized, according to the standards in force, in specific environments for the food and pharmaceutical fields. Vulcanized silicone elastomers have uses in the food, medical, pharmaceutical industries, etc., because they do not contain substances that are not toxicologically admitted. The dispersion of TiO₂ nanopowders (with antifungal, antibacterial and antimicrobial properties) in the nanocompound mass has a decisive role in influencing its antimicrobial and antibacterial sterilization properties. The polymeric nanocompound based on silicone rubber contributes to improving the quality of the products, but also to environmental protection and, of course, protection of human health.
  
  KEY WORDS: biological characterisation, antibacterial nanocompound, silicone rubber, nanoparticles
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Fabrication of collagen hydrolysate nanofibers by the electrospinning method
- Pages 233-242
  Meruyert KAYGUSUZ*
  - Pamukkale University, Denizli Vocational School of Technical Sciences, Denizli, Turkey, meruyertk@pau.edu.tr
  ABSTRACT. Nanotechnology is a ground-breaking technology which has found applications on many areas of daily life. Fibers with nanometer diameters are the most suitable candidates for a large number of applications since they have high surface area to volume ratio and different surface characteristics. Among the various nanofiber production techniques, the most advanced and efficient is the electrospinning technique. In our study, nanofibers were obtained from collagen hydrolysate by the electrospinning method. For this purpose, collagen hydrolysate was dissolved at different concentrations in 2,2,2-trifluorethanol and stirred for six hours at room temperature. The turbidity, viscosity, conductivity and pH of the solutions were determined. According to the results obtained, it was observed that viscosity and conductivity values rose as the amount of collagen hydrolysate increased. Nanofibers of collagen hydrolysate with 103 nm and 384 nm obtained by the electrospinning method were examined by SEM, and their morphological characteristics were discussed.
  
  KEY WORDS: electrospinning, collagen hydrolysate, nanofiber, leather
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Testing the new products for finishing footwear made of natural leather
- Pages 243-250
  Olga NICULESCU, Luminita ALBU, Gheorghe COARA, Lucretia MIU, Carmen GAIDAU, Rodica CONSTANTINESCU, Dana GURAU
  - INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu Street, Sector 3, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. In order to create a footwear model, it is necessary to take into account the chosen materials, the manufacturing system and, last but not least, fashion trends, because fashion can be a determining factor for the industry. Finishing improves the appearance of the shoe and preserves it. Various wax mixtures combined with natural and synthetic oils are used to finish footwear, such as water-resistant mixtures and leather polishing products, with the purpose of improving the appearance of footwear uppers made of natural leather finished by polishing. The obtained ecologic wax emulsion may be used in surface finishing of natural bovine leather and footwear, in the final dressing composition. This paper presents the technological process of footwear manufacturing and the finishing composition for footwear made of natural leather based on complex metal dyes, ethyl alcohol, nitrocellulose aqueous emulsion, wax emulsion (made from triethanolamine monostearate and paraffin oil), used to obtain glossy finish.
  
  KEY WORDS: natural leather, finishing footwear
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