Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 11, no 4

Contents
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Wastewater Treatment Efficiency Using Polymeric Materials Obtained by Electron Beam Irradiation as Flocculants
- Pages 267-278
  Gabriela CRACIUN*, Elena MANAILA, Daniel IGHIGEANU
  - National Institute for Laser, Plasma and Radiation Physics, Electron Accelerators Laboratory, 409 Atomistilor St., 077125 Magurele, Romania, email: gabriela.craciun@inflpr.ro
  ABSTRACT. This paper presents the correlation between physico-chemical characteristics of some polymeric materials obtained by electron beam irradiation and their efficiency for waste water treatment. Flocculants are obtained by copolymerization of acrylamide and acrylic acid with electron beam irradiation and have the following characteristics: conversion coefficient C > 90%, residual monomer concentration Mr < 0.01%, intrinsic viscosity Î·intr. > 6.5, linearity coefficient kH < 0.5 and good water solubility. The role of these materials is to induce an advanced coagulation process and thus to fit the quality indicators of wastewater within the limits imposed by legislation: Norm on the Conditions of Wastewater Discharge into the Local Sewerage Networks NTPA-002/2005 and Norm Setting Limits on Effluent Pollution Load in Water Resources NTPA-001/2005.
  
  KEY WORDS: flocculant, electron beam, wastewater, polymers
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The Influence of Montmorillonite on Physical-Mechanical Properties of Butadiene-co-Acrylonitrile Rubber
- Pages 279-292
  Maria FICAI¹*, Ana STAN², Mihai GEORGESCU¹, Mihaela VILSAN¹, Dana GURAU¹
  - ¹National Research and Development Institute for Textiles and Leather Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Bucharest, Romania, icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Elie Carafoli National Institute of Aerospace Research, 220 Iuliu Maniu Blvd., Bucharest, Romania, anastan@incas.ro
  ABSTRACT. The purpose of adding the commercial Cloisite 93A montmorillonite (clay modified with quaternary ammonium salt) in butadiene-co-acrylonitrile elastomer is to optimize physical and mechanical properties of the latter. Polymer composites were developed on a semi-industrial roll with strict observance of technological formulation and operating mode. To obtain maximum performance, an adequate dispersion of montmorillonite needs to be ensured in the elastomer mass. From composites samples were taken and subjected to physical and mechanical tests and from vulcanized samples immersions were done in different solvents to determine areas of use. Optimum curing times were determined by rheological analysis, using Monsanto rheometer (to determine temperature and the optimum curing time), blends were vulcanized in electric press (depending on the results obtained from rheogram analysis) and subjected to physico-mechanical tests (in normal state and in accelerated aging state) on a Teba dynamometer from Timisoara.
  
  KEY WORDS: montmorillonite, butadiene-co-acrylonitrile rubber, physical-mechanical properties
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Cultural Models in Haute-Couture Fashion Part I - Influences in Footwear Design
- Pages 293-302
  Traian FOIASI*
  - INCDTP Division Leather and Footwear Research Institute, Bucharest, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. Fashion is a vital process for the society, it is a state of mind which penetrates and even leads the main sectors of production, affirmation, and culture of human collectivity. On the evolutionary scale, eras have been and are still marked by fashion in architecture, furniture, painting, literature, philosophy, science, all these generating in their turn cultural models. Everywhere fashion is the expression of restlessness, an innovative, stimulating and guiding spirit of life force. The ephemeral nature of this expression refers particularly to the nonconformist spirit of fashion, through which the natural integration in the periodical and transient phenomenality of the concrete becomes global. The structure of the fashion spirit is important and complex, dependent on both the intimacy and originality of the society infrastructure, correlated with the evolution of the material production methods, with the relations between categories and classes of people in the society, with culture levels, with collective psychology, but also involving certain degrees of sensitivity, intelligence, voluntary behaviour, correlated with the entire axiology of ethics, esthetics, ideology, and science of the ages. Each time period in history, each people, each nation, each stage in society development have involved a succession of forms and contents which have configured as many fashion states conquered, lived, which have become cultural models. The paper presents cultural models and their influence on footwear fashion.
  
  KEY WORDS: cultural models, style, accessories, creation, footwear
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Boot 3D Modelling and Pattern Making Using CAD Technology
- Pages 303-318
  Mariana PASTINA*, Aura MIHAI, Stan MITU
  - "Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management, 53 D. Mangeron Blvd., 700050 - Iasi, Romania, email: mariana.pastina@yahoo.com, amihai@tex.tuiasi.ro, smitu@tex.tuiasi.ro
  ABSTRACT. The aim of this paper is to present a method for obtaining women's boots using CAD technology currently available in the leather industry. Design of the last, so that it will match the anthropometric parameters of the foot, has always been a challenge, especially in 2D drawing. Using a 3D modelling software, a boot last can be obtained with accuracy, so that the foot shape is transposed into the last shape and into the footwear shape respectively. The article proposes a modern approach to boot design, compared with the classical design, resulting in a virtual prototype that can be visualized and analyzed before manufacturing the final product, and thus minimizing the production costs. Automatic transition from 3D modelling to 2D design and pattern making, only through a simple correction of model lines, extensively reduces the production time.
  
  KEY WORDS: footwear, last, 3D modelling, design
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Database for Clean Technologies in the Leather Industry
- Pages 319-326
  Gheorghe BOSTACA*, Sergiu-Adrian GUTA
  - INCDTP - Division Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. Economic efficiency, technological progress, research, as well as industrial applications generated by the latter are supported by information. Developing a database in which data management makes it possible to apply data in the leather and footwear sector, in order to increase efficiency of activities, becomes thus a necessity. The paper presents the basic elements: the architecture, access, display of records, search, administration of this database for operations, processes, technological machines from the leather industry, whose purpose is to comply with environmental prescriptions for a production which protects the environment and ensures the sustainability of this industry.
  
  KEY WORDS: database, clean technologies, chemical auxiliaries, leather, footwear
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Biocompatibility Study of Collagen Nerve Conductors
- Pages 327-334
  Madalina Georgiana ALBU¹*, Irina TITORENCU²
  - ¹INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute, Bucharest, Romania, email: albu_mada@yahoo.com
  - ²"Nicolae Simionescu" Institute of Biology and Cellular Pathology, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. Peripheral nerve lesions are the cause of many lifelong disabilities, although peripheral nerves have self-regeneration capacity for less severe lesions. The paper presents nerve conductors developed based on collagen, with well-established properties and dimensions as required by peripheral nerve regeneration. These new materials have a native fibrillar structure of collagen; they are resistant to temperature, enzymatic degradation; they have a uniform microporous structure with pores of 5-20 µm, internal diameter of 1.3 mm and are biocompatible with neural cells. The paper also presents the results of the biocompatibility study of collagen nerve conductors.
  
  KEY WORDS: nerve conductors, neural cells, biocompatibility
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