Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 8, no 4

Contents
- Contents PDF
Obtaining lanolin from sheepskin processing wastewater
- Pages 3-16
  Viorica DESELNICU¹, Stelian MAIER², Nicolae BADEA², I. BUCISCANU², A. VADUVA³, D. PAPAKONSTANTINOU⁴
  - ¹INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Technical University "Gh. Asachi" Iasi, RO
  - ³S.C. Favior Vidra S.A. Orastie, RO
  - ⁴4EL KE DE Athene, GR
  ABSTRACT. Environmental regulations are forcing change. Tannery processes are invariably conducted in water media and washing conveniently effects the removal of surplus materials; all these pollutant effluents must be treated before discharge into urban sewerage systems or into rivers etc. Each day, a sheepskins tannery deposits thousands of liters of wastewaters into an effluent treatment plant. It is a significant cost for the tannery that has to pay to obtain the water and than to treat it. It is the purpose of this paper to present a practical solution to these problems applied to a sheepskins tannery. Fat Reduction/elimination in wastewaters from washing process of sheepskins represents the main objective, but some other favorable ecological and economical results will be possible: - Fat Recovery and valorization as by-product (lanoline); Reduction of water consumption by Recycling (after treatment) again in the process. The tannery adopted a strategy for survival based on eco-effectiveness.
  
  KEY WORDS: lanolin, sheep skin, waste water
The Kinetic Growth of Single Cell Proteins on Grease Substrate
- Pages 17-24
  Gabriela MACOVESCU¹, Stela POPOVICI², Mihaela BADEA³, D. PASARIN²
  - ¹INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Chemical Research Institut, Bucharest, RO
  - ²"Tor Vergata" University, Department of Science and Chemical Technology, Rome, IT
  ABSTRACT. This work the obtaining of single cell proteins, immunomodulating in animal feed, was realized with yeasts like Candida lipolytica, Yarrowia lipolytica, Saccharomycopsis lipolytica, on a grease substrate recovered from hide wastes. The mechanism of the greases transformation in proteins stands in the lipase's action produced by yeasts on the greases and their cleavage in greasy acids and glycerin. The activation of the greasy acids is realized in two stages with the formation of an intermediate produce acil adenilat - macroergic compound. The premises of the greasy acids transformation in cellular substance are in mitochondria, formations that posses the necessary equipments for the greasy acids - oxidation and Krebs cycle in this metabolic process realization. The kinetic process of single cell proteins was studied with the aid of growth curves (the logarithm of the cell number as a function of time) with the purpose of setting the growth stationary phase, when physiological modifications take place a long with a maximum storing of biomass.
  
  KEY WORDS: proteins single cells, kinetic process, wastes
Alternative Process for Tanning Leather
- Pages 25-34
  Viorica DESELNICU¹, Emin ARCA², Nicolae BADEA³, Stelian Sergiu MAIER³, Dana Corina DESELNICU¹
  - ¹INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Marmara University, Istanbul, TR
  - ³University "Gheorghe Asachi" Iasi, RO
  ABSTRACT. Recent years have seen an ever-increasing performance for good consumer goods which impact on human life, retaining the style and original benefits on nature. Improving lifestyles lead to greater pressure on the environment but at the same time, demands to preserve the environment grow too. This is also due to the increasing number of consumers who like to choose products and manufacturing processes so called natural and ecological. The results have been felt along many industries, the leather industry probably more then most. The deep interest in clean technologies of tanners has lead to increased efforts to develop chrome-free tanning agents. But chromium is considered toxic for human ealth. This paper will present an innovative tanning system, which considerably reduces environmental problems. This includes synthesis of a new tanning agent, a new tanning system and characterization of "Wet White" leather.
  
  KEY WORDS: wet white leather, tanning agent, melamine formaldehyde resins
3D Imagistic Capture of the Foot
- Pages 35-44
  Ana Maria VASILESCU, Gheorghe BERIJAN, Bujorel JIDIUC, Daniel PETCU
  - INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. When investigating the anatomic-morphological configurations of the feet and the anthropometric parameters, and the correlation indices between these, the specificity for every subject leading to the need of making customized lasts and footwear has been found. Customized footwear can be obtained by optimizing the last structures and shapes by correlating them with the foot sizes. The anthropometric parameter values were obtained by measurements carried out on 3D foot scanner (INFOOT USB model IFU-S-01&IFU-H-01). The software for the 3D imagistic capture of the foot involves 20 dimensional parameters of significance in their conversion into the shoe last shapes and sizes. All these parameters measured by scanning and virtual processing that is whole this anatomic-morphological configuration of the foot is obtained to provide the accurate shape and size of the footwear nsides, achieved by a proper last construction with the aim of meeting the foot comfort requirements.
  
  KEY WORDS: anthropometric parameters, last, imagistic capture
Obtaining Micellar Structures of Macromolecular Compounds Intended to be Applied in Cleaning Wastewaters Resulting from the Leather Industry
- Pages 45-56
  Gheorghe COARA¹, Demetra SIMION¹, Margareta Stela FLORESCU², Elena SANDU³, Teodora DRAGOMIR¹, Laura PANTURU¹, Jose Ignatio CASES MENDES⁴
  - ¹INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Academy of Economic Studies, Bucharest, RO
  - ³I.F.I.N. Bucharest, RO
  - ⁴University Carlos III Madrid, ES
  ABSTRACT. The work reveals the similarities and differences between the micelle forming in macromolecular compounds in various solvents and in classic surfactants. By coupled analytical methods such as UV-VIS and IR spectroscopy, optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy the influence of some factors such as thermal condition, solvent type, concentration, presence of organic substances in making and development of supermolecular structures of macromolecular compounds with surfactant properties was investigated. The potential applications of these structures in cleaning the waste waters resulting from leather industry.
  
  KEY WORDS: macromolecular compounds, supermolecular structures, surfactants
Improvement of the Research & Innovation Policies by Open Method of Coordination (OMC)
- Pages 57-68
  Margareta FLORESCU¹, Gheorghe ZAMAN², V. VALENTINA², Christian de VISSCHER³
  - ¹Academy of Economic Studies, Bucharest, RO, icefaceus@yahoo.com
  - ²Romanian Academy National Institute of Economics Bucharest, RO, gheorghezaman@ien.ro
  - ³Université Catholique de Louvain, Louvaine - la - Neuve, FR
  ABSTRACT. Within the EU-25 the last developments in the innovation policy have enabled three major improvement trends by OMC method to be identified, as follows: advantages of the improved coherence in the national R&D policies in Europe; the OMC impact on the decision making process at the national level so far; modalities of intensifying the implementation of this method with the view of integrating the national R&D policies into the National Strategies of Lisbon type. In this context, reaching the competitiveness, sustainability and economic growth objectives is relevant and dependent on the medium-term and long-term major progresses in the research and technology. The paper deals with some strategically significant features, particularly relevant in the field of innovation policies.
  
  KEY WORDS: R&D policies, open method, innovation
Manufacture Process for Special Footwear Intended to be Worn in Desert Areas
- Pages 69-78
  Maria VIDRU
  - INCDTP - Leather and Footwear Research Institute (ICPI), Bucharest, RO, icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. Special footwear intended to be worn in desert areas is military footwear resisting under particular weather conditions such as desert weather. Such footwear also has to comply with the NATO requirements on this kind of footwear because of the new position of Romania. Most of materials used in the manufacture of such footwear were made in Romania and selected by specific methods assessing their ability to resist under hard weathering conditions. Footwear was designed and made so that to preserve its original performances under particular environmental and wear conditions over time.
  
  KEY WORDS: footwear, UV radiations, large temperature variations