Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 25, no 2

Contents
- Contents PDF
Full issue
- Full issue
TECHNICAL STUDY ON COLOR FASTNESS IN LEATHER DYEING
- Pages 67-78
  Ding YING¹, Zhao LIXUE^2*, Yang CHEN³
  - ¹Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, No. 108, Lihu Middle Avenue, Xiangtang Economic Development Zone, 330201, Nanchang City, China, 2796649437@qq.com
  - ²Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Nanchang Key Laboratory of Digital Apparel System Design, No. 108, Lihu Middle Avenue, Xiangtang Economic Development Zone, 330201, Nanchang City, China, zxue23@163.com
  - ³Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Jiangxi Centre for Modern Apparel Engineering and Technology, No. 108, Lihu Middle Avenue, Xiangtang Economic Development Zone, 330201, Nanchang City, China, comradeyang@qq.com
  ABSTRACT. Through a systematic experimental study, this paper investigates the main factors affecting color stability in leather dyeing. Three sets of tests—water resistance, friction resistance, and acid-base resistance—were conducted using standard methods to evaluate leather color stability under different conditions. The results show that in the water resistance test (37 ± 2 °C), the specimens’ color change rating reached Grades 4-5, and the staining rating on the multifiber adjacent fabric ranged from Grades 3-4 to 4. In the friction resistance test, under dry friction conditions, both the color change rating of the specimens and the staining rating of the friction cloth reached Grade 5, whereas under wet friction conditions, the staining rating of the friction cloth fell to Grade 3. In the acid-base resistance test, acidic solutions exerted the greatest impact on color stability, while alkaline solutions primarily caused physical changes on the leather surface. These findings provide a theoretical basis and technical support for improving color stability in leather dyeing processes.
  
  KEY WORDS: leather dyeing, color stability, water resistance, friction resistance, acid-base resistance
  Read article
CHROMIUM REPLACEMENT WITH ZIRCONIUM MATERIALS IN THE LEATHER TANNING INDUSTRY TO REDUCE POLLUTANTS ON THE PHYSICAL FEATURES OF LEATHER
- Pages 79-88
  Roselini Agustia ANDINI¹, Ambar PERTIWININGRUM^2*, Yuni ERWANTO², Muhammad Zaenal ABIDIN²
  - ¹Student of Doctor of Animal Science Program, Faculty of Animal Husbandry, Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta
  - ²Department of Animal Husbandry, Faculty of Animal Husbandry, Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta, email: artiwi@mail.ugm.ac.id
  ABSTRACT. Sheepskin has been used since ancient times for footwear, clothing, and accessories. Tanning transforms raw hide into a durable and stable product, protecting it from microbial degradation, heat, sweat, and moisture. However, traditional tanning processes use dangerous chemicals such as chrome, formaldehyde, and other volatile organic compounds that can pollute the environment and pose health risks. This research aimed to explore the use of zirconium as an alternative, more environmentally friendly tanning material in the sheepskin tanning process. The research method used a Completely Randomized Design (CRD) with four zirconium concentration treatments (7.5%, 10%, 12.5%, and 15%) and three replications. Observed variables include tensile strength, elongation, laxity, thickness, and tear strength of the skin, which are measured using ISO and SNI standards. The data obtained were analyzed using analysis of variance (ANOVA) and Duncan’s Multiple Range Test (DMRT). The research showed that zirconium significantly increases the tensile strength, elongation, thickness, and tear strength of sheepskin. The highest tensile strength was at a concentration of 15% (2440.56 N/mm²), and the lowest was at 7.5% (1339.05 N/mm²). Skin elongation and thickness also increased with zirconium concentration, with the highest being at a concentration of 15% (115.59 mm). The highest tear strength was at 15% (393.97 N/mm), while skin laxity showed no significant difference between concentrations. The conclusion of this research is that zirconium can be used as an effective and environmentally friendly alternative tanning material in the sheepskin tanning process.
  
  KEY WORDS: zirconium, sheepskin, mordant, tanning
  Read article
DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF HANDICRAFTS BASED ON WASTE VEGETABLE-TANNED LEATHER MATERIALS
- Pages 89-96
  Zhong LIULI¹, Zhao LIXUE^2*
  - ¹Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, No. 108, Lihu Middle Avenue, Xiangtang Economic Development Zone, 330201, Nanchang City, China, 2766381084@qq.com
  - ²Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology, Nanchang Key Laboratory of Digital Apparel System Design, No. 108, Lihu Middle Avenue, Xiangtang Economic Development Zone, 330201, Nanchang City, China, zxue23@163.com
  ABSTRACT. This research investigates the reuse of waste vegetable-tanned leather materials in the leather industry. Through systematic analysis of the physical properties of waste vegetable-tanned leather materials, this study explores their potential applications in handicraft design and production. The research conducts tensile strength, tear resistance, and abrasion resistance performance tests on vegetable-tanned leather materials according to relevant standards (ISO 3376, ISO 3377-2, ISO 178076-1), and develops design solutions based on the test results. Tests show that waste vegetable-tanned leather materials have longitudinal and transverse tensile strengths of 16.487 MPa and 13.008 MPa respectively, an average tear strength of 112.164 N, and an average abrasion mass loss of only 23 mg. The research findings indicate that these materials possess excellent physical properties, and waste vegetable-tanned leather materials have significant reuse value. Through appropriate process design, they can be transformed into commercially valuable handicrafts, including apparel accessories, stationery items, and artistic decorative pieces. This research provides new insights into the circular utilization of waste vegetable-tanned leather materials and has important implications for promoting the translation from theory to practice of sustainable development in the leather industry.
  
  KEY WORDS: vegetable-tanned leather, waste material reuse, handicraft design, sustainable development
  Read article