Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 19, no 3

Contents
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Bass-modeling for fast fashion lady's shoes based on consumer behavior
- Pages 167-176
  Keyu HOU¹, Jinzhi HE¹, Lisha LIANG¹, Jingjing LI¹, Jin ZHOU^1,2*
  - ¹Sichuan University, College of Light Industry, Textile and Food Engineering, National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture, Section of Chengdu No. 24 Southern Yihuan, 610065, Chengdu, China, 625368881@qq.com
  - ²Science Lab, Zhejiang Red Dragonfly Footwear Co., LTD., Zhejiang Province, Wenzhou, 325100, Wenzhou, China, zj_scu@scu.edu.cn
  ABSTRACT. Fast fashion is prevalent in the retail industry, however, plotting its life cycle becomes problematic as that feedback from sales record is even considered to be late for them. So, variables in the process of consumer behavior are potential ones for life cycle assessment of fast fashion products. Currently, most studies of Bass model chose the sales data, but whether the Bass model can also be applied for those in consuming process has not been evaluated; meanwhile, if the modeling based on consumer behaviors such as attention and fitting are available, we can project forward in time and make predictions much earlier than those based only on sales. Therefore, we developed a special system and it was used to collect the attention and fitting records. Our results show that only moderate Bass-fitting results were found for individual-level data; while, good to excellent results could be obtained for the accumulated data. Further, a moderate to good correlation was found between the sales and attention on one hand, and sale and fitting on the other. Regression models including Bass Model equations could be applied to predict the sales by either the attention or the fitting data. Overall, variables of consumer behavior, such as attention and fitting, were found to be suitable for Bass Modeling; further they were found to be good indicators to predict sales. These efforts advanced the time required to predict the sales trend of fast fashion sandals and make the predictive protocols more reliable.
  
  KEY WORDS: LCA, RFID, attention-fitting-buying model, attention and fitting, off-line retailing
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Performance assessment of green practices in liming with reductive potential chemicals for environmental sustainability
- Pages 177-181
  Bahri BASARAN, Ali YORGANCIOGLU, Ersin ONEM*, Behzat Oral BITLISLI
  - Ege University, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Leather Engineering, 35100, Izmir, Turkiye, e-mail: deri@mail.ege.edu.tr
  ABSTRACT. Leather processings involved in isolation in pre-tanning stages generate large volumes of solid wastes and high strength wastewater which are major source of environmental pollution characterized by chemical oxygen demand (COD), biological oxygen demand (BOD), total dissolved solids (TDS), total suspended solids (TSS), chromium (III) and phenolics with high pH, strong odor and dark brown color. Leather industry wastewaters with high organic content and pollution load are generated from pre-tanning processes. Conventional pre-tanning process utilises chemicals which attributes to 50-60% of pollution load and alkaline effluent discharge of 70-80% toxicity. In our study, the best practices modelling and eco-compatible process shifts were the objectives for the decrement in high pollution load of large effluent portion for leather industry. Soaking, immunization and liming processes were carried out with reductive chemical additives and surfactants, fibre opening auxiliaries, enzyme based and enzyme assisted chemicals in the factories as an eco-friendly designed recipe. Studies were conducted in Bursa Leather Park, Turkey. The results revealed the advantages of time saving, cost effectivity and minimized pollution load compared to conventional process. Moreover, the designed process uses lower amount of alkaline chemicals and water, gives a very high quality pelts with open grain and yield in 50-55% lime split output with 2.2-2.4 mm thicknesses.
  
  KEY WORDS: leather, liming, wastewater, environment, sustainability
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Plantar pressure analysis of volleyball players based on gait features
- Pages 182-192
  Zegang WANG*
  - Xichang University, Xichang 615000, China, wangzegang@126.com
  ABSTRACT. Due to long-term intense training, volleyball players are more likely to suffer from high pressures in some places of the sole than ordinary people. Sustained exposure to such a high pressure will lead to foot eversion/inversion and different degrees of sports injuries, posing a serious threat to the sports career. Gait features have long been recognized as a major impactor of plantar pressure, but have not been applied to analyze the plantar pressure of volleyball players. To make up for the gap, this paper introduces gait features to the plantar pressure analysis of volleyball players. Professional volleyball players and ordinary people were separately allocated to the test group and the control group, and subjected to contrastive test. The gait features were recorded by a special device. On this basis, the author analyzed the plantar pressure collected in the test, trying to disclose the effects of gait features on plantar pressure and disease of volleyball players. The research results show that: (1) Volleyball players differ greatly from ordinary people in gait features; (2) The uneven distribution of plantar pressure is a major cause of plantar diseases of volleyball players; (3) Changing the gait features helps make the distribution of plantar pressure more uniform, and thus effectively control the risk of plantar diseases. This paper innovatively introduces gait features into the analysis on plantar pressure of volleyball players, and proves that plantar pressure distribution varies with gait features. Of course, gait features are not the only influencing factors of plantar pressure. The future research will explore the other factors that affect the plantar pressure of volleyball players.
  
  KEY WORDS: Gait features, plantar pressure, sports injuries, volleyball
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A unified technology of crust leather production using polymeric compounds development
- Pages 193-202
  Nataliia PERVAIA, Olga ANDREYEVA, Lesia MAISTRENKO, Olena MOKROUSOVA, Svitlana HARKAVENKO, Anna NIKONOVA
  Kyiv National University of Technologies and Design, 2 Nemyrovycha-Danchenka Str., 01011, Kyiv, Ukraine, nataliiapervaia@gmail.com
  
  ABSTRACT. Nowadays there is a considerable deficit of extractive, material and energy resources. Thus, there is a topical issue of creating, developing and application of ecologically friendly, resource-saving technologies of natural leather development, using modern materials, which are able both to replace toxic reactive chemicals, fully or partially, and maintain the high quality of products. We have developed a standardized technology of crust leather production regarding the tanning and crusting processes, using ecologically friendly polymeric compounds of the new generation. This technology provides a more sustainable use of leather raw materials and chemicals, decreasing the processing length and environmental harm.
  
  KEY WORDS: crust leather, standardized technology, tanning, crusting processes, polymeric compounds
  
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Decision making of product quality and carbon emission reduction in footwear supply chain under production capacity constraint
- Pages 203-210
  Jian TAN¹, Guoqiang JIANG², Zuogong WANG³*
  - ¹Guiyang Institute for Big Data and Finance, Guizhou University of Finance and Economics, Guiyang 550003, China
  - ²Economic Law School, Southwest University of Political Science & Law, Chongqing 401120, China
  - ³Institute of Risk Management, Henan university, Kaifeng 475004, China
  ABSTRACT. For the supply chain composed of raw material suppliers and footwear manufacturers, considering the limitation of supplier production capacity, this study was based on the balance of raw material production quantity and quality. In this paper, the game theory was used to establish one centralized decision-making model and one decentralized decision-making model. Then, under these two decisionmaking models, the optimal decision-making problems such as raw material quality and manufacturer carbon emission reduction were studied, and sensitivity analysis was also made through simulation. The research results show that when the quality of the supplied raw materials under these two models is the same, the demand for the products is also the same, and the total profit is relatively larger in decentralized decision-making; when the carbon emission reduction degree of the two decision-making models is the same, the quality requirements for raw materials are higher in the centralized decision-making, but their demand and total profit are relatively low.
  
  KEY WORDS: production capacity, footwear supply chain, game, carbon emission reduction
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Testing a new product based on essential oil with antifungal properties for treatment of natural leather
- Pages 211-216
  Olga NICULESCU*, Luminita ALBU, Gheorghe COARA, Lucretia MIU, Carmen GAIDAU, Rodica CONSTANTINESCU, Dana GURAU
  - INCDTP - Division Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Sector 3, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. Tanned, crust or finished leather may be damaged by different types of molds, which irreversibly degrade natural leather (during processing or storage). This paper presents the resistance to Aspergillus niger strain of leather samples treated with the developed cinnamon essential oil-based product. Testing of antifungal product based on cinnamon oil was carried out monitoring the manner in which mold growth is influenced by the treatment applied to the sample through the resistance to mold in simulated contamination conditions. This product improves leather and leather product resistance to fungi, while ensuring a higher quality of natural leathers.
  
  KEY WORDS: cinnamon essential oil, natural leather, Aspergillus niger
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