Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 13, no 3

Contents
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Influence of Retanning Materials with Different Properties on the Flammability of Leather
- Pages 179-186
  Fan CHENG¹, Lingyun JIANG¹, Wuyong CHEN¹*, Carmen Cornelia GAIDAU², Lucretia MIU²
  - ¹National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610065, P. R. China, email: ffffcheng2008@163.com, wuyong.chen@163.com
  - ²INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., sector 3, 031215 Bucharest, Romania, email: carmen_gaidau@hotmail.com
  ABSTRACT. During leather making, plenty of materials are added to the hide fiber in some treatments including tanning, retanning and fatliquoring. Most of these processes and materials impact the flammability of leather. In this paper, effects of properties of retanning agents on leather flammability were emphatically discussed. First, six retanning agents were selected, including Chromitan, vegetable tannin, glutaraldehyde, syntans and organophosphorus agent, to treat cattle wet blue with routine processes. Then the flammability of the retanned and the control leather was evaluated by vertical flame test, oxygen index test and smoke density test. The surface area of the retanned leather was also measured by nitrogen adsorption method. The results show that the effect of different properties of retanning agents on leather flammability varies greatly. This is mainly due to three aspects: the combining ways between retanning agents and leather fibres, the filling ability of retanning materials to leather and the flame resistant element contained in retanning agents. These results may offer some guidance for the choices of retanning agent for fire-resistant leather.
  
  KEY WORDS: retanning materials, leather, flammability
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Transfer of Organic Substances from Residual Tannery Baths to the Multifunctional Mineral Complex Made of Red Mud
- Pages 187-200
  Mihaela-Doina NICULESCU*
  - INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., sector 3, Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. This research highlights the possibility of individual treatment of baths resulting from processes prior to leather tanning for controlled capture of organic substances using mineral complex made by chemical modification of red mud, waste from the production of alumina from bauxite, using the Bayer process. Experiments have demonstrated the capacity of the mineral complex, obtained by chemical modification of red mud, to retain organic substances from wastewater. By treating the residual baths from operations prior to leather tanning with the red mud based mineral complex, chemical oxygen demand of residual baths can be reduced by about 85%. The transfer of organic substances into the mineral complex is simple, effective and reproducible and does not cause particular problems in terms of toxicology and occupational safety.
  
  KEY WORDS: organic substances, transfer, mineral complex
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Plantar footprints analysis case study (part 1)
- Pages 200-210
  Aura MIHAI¹, Guillaume HORTAL², Mariana COSTEA¹*
  - ¹Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management, "Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, 53 Dimitrie Mangeron Blvd., 700050, Iasi, Romania, e-mail: mariana.pastina@yahoo.com
  - ²Student, National School of Arts and Textile Industries of Roubaix, France
  ABSTRACT. This study aims to analyze the plantar footprints based on biomechanical parameters obtained through plantar pressure measurements and to present an easy to use methodology for establishing the foot type in order to further suggest orthopaedic devices, such as customized soles and insoles. Using the RSScan pressure plate and the Footscan software, fine observations both on foot and on repartition of foot pressures are made. By analyzing the maximum pressures obtained in this case study, the highest values were registered under 3rd and 4th metatarsal bones, suggesting that the investigated subject has different arrangements of high pressures compared with the ones reported by other similar studies. The gait time has been analysed, resulting in a normal distribution of this parameter on each area of the foot. By comparing the results, the left foot has been demonstrated to be high arched.
  
  KEY WORDS: plantar pressure, gait, foot, footprint
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Considerations on Fish Skin Processing
- Pages 211-220
  Gheorghe BOSTACA*, Marian CRUDU
  - INCDTP Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Minulescu St., Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. After outlining the context that has led to the increased significance of fish skins as raw material source, and its characteristics, the paper presents an overview of the major technological aspects involved in their processing.
  
  KEY WORDS: fish skins, raw material source, characteristics
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3D Modelling of Shoe Lasts Using Templates Based on Anthropometrical Measurements of the Foot Case Study
- Pages 221-234
  Bogdan SARGHIE¹, Mariana COSTEA², Aura MIHAI²*
  - ¹"Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, Doctoral School of the Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management, 53 Dimitrie Mangeron Blvd., 700050, Iasi, Romania
  - ²"Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles, Leather and Industrial Management, 53 Dimitrie Mangeron Blvd., 700050, Iasi, Romania, e-mail: amihai@tex.tuiasi.ro
  ABSTRACT. The article presents a method of designing templates for modelling shoe lasts, according to specific anthropometrical dimensions of a subject's foot, employed as military personnel. The subject's peculiarity lies in the type of professional activity that he is carrying out; the lower limbs have a much greater risk of injury and there is the need to prevent such problems by using special footwear, which will not restrict the conduct of his military activities. The design of last's templates consists in creating a geometrical construction based on the dimensional characteristics of the subject's feet. Using software such as Delcam Engineer and Last Maker new techniques for modelling shoe lasts were developed. The advantages of the presented method are represented by the decreased time of last's design and the accuracy of the results. Applying this method to a larger scale enables its development and allows footwear manufacturers to achieve a diverse range of products, faster and at lower costs than current possibilities.
  
  KEY WORDS: foot, military footwear, shoe last, template
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Paleology and Old History of Footwear in Romania
- Pages 235-246
  Marlena POP*
  - INCDTP Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu St., Bucharest, Romania, e-mail: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. The degree of civilization for a people emerges out of the everyday life of its individuals, their way of dressing, dwelling, feeding, learning, living within a community, etc. Everyday life refers to the in actu civilization, that is, those civilization manifestations found in the everyday life of a human community, and the manner in which potential civilization facts (techniques and objects, all kinds of knowledge, social and moral rules) are converted into actual civilization facts. In this context, researching and outlining a history of footwear may be an act of knowledge in itself, but it can also be an addition to the history of the Romanian civilization. Romanian history sources, in terms of both arts and literature, and historiography and archeological sites, are poor and inadequate, particularly those regarding the old history of footwear. The paper presents a short history of footwear, from the late Paleolithic to the early Middle Age, on the Romanian territory of today. Both the material vestiges certifying leather processing and shoe making on the Romanian territory, and the Romanian linguistic treasure have equally revealed the millenary continuity of some trades, alongside the continuity of the Romanian people in the hearth of its Geto-Dacian ancestors.
  
  KEY WORDS: footwear, paleology, history
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