Leather and Footwear Journal

Volume 10, no 4

Contents
- Contents PDF
Full issue
- Full issue
Preparation of Beta-Cyclodextrin / Jasmine Oil Inclusion Compounds for Durable Fragrant Leather
- Pages 3-12
  Xiaoyan ZHANG¹, Wuyong CHEN¹*, Xiaoling LIU¹, Yan XIA¹, Carmen GAIDAU²
  - ¹National Engineering Laboratory for Clean Technology of Leather Manufacture, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610065, Sichuan, P.R. China
  - ²Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93, Ion Minulescu St, sector 3, 031215, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. In this research, inclusion compounds of jasmine oil and β-cyclodextrin (β-CD) were prepared by saturated solution stirring method and applied in fragrance finishing of leather. The influencing factors of efficiency and yield in inclusion process were studied by orthogonal experiment. The best conditions to obtain the highest inclusion efficiency and yield are as follows: the mass ratio of jasmine and β-CD is 1:8, the sintering temperature is 50°C, and the inclusion time is 3 h. The formation of inclusion compounds was investigated by Fourier transform-infrared (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (X-RD), with the mechanical mixture of jasmine and β-CD as a control. The results show that jasmine could be successfully wrapped with β-CD. The thermodynamic property of inclusion compounds was tested by Thermal gravimetry (TG). It shows that the inclusion could enhance the thermal stability of jasmine oil. In addition, the inclusion compounds were used in finishing process for fragrant leather and the flavor concentration volatilized from treated leather was ranked by sensory test. The results indicate that the odor retention of leather treated with inclusion compounds is significantly better than that treated with jasmine oil alone.
  
  KEY WORDS: leather, fragrance, β-cyclodextrin
  Read article
Biopolymeric Systems for Ecologic Rehabilitation of Degraded Soils
- Pages 13-24
  Gabriel ZAINESCU¹*, Luminita ALBU¹, Petre VOICU², Rodica CONSTANTINESCU¹, Emil BARNA³, Alina GHERGHINA²
  - ¹National R&D Institute for Textile and Leather - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu st., 031215, Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  - ²Research Institute for Soil Science and Agrochemistry, 61 Marasti Blvd., 071331, Bucharest, Romania, email: office@icpa.ro
  - ³University of Bucharest, 36-46 M. Kogălniceanu Blvd., 050107, Bucharest, Romania
  ABSTRACT. All tanneries and leather product manufacturers are facing serious problems regarding waste disposal, especially since their storage in landfills leads to negative effects on the ecosystem. The use of untanned wastes is of great interest, as it offers the possibility of almost entirely eliminating wastes from fleshing, and at the same time, obtaining valuable products in terms of quality and economy. Organic biopolymers are a source of raw materials for agriculture, as the composition of protein wastes provides enough elements to improve the composition and remediate degraded soils, and plants can exploit some elements: nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, sodium, potassium etc. As a result of the large quantities of organic wastes, they can be used as organic fertilizer to remediate poorly productive or unproductive terrain areas (sandy, salty, eroded etc.). This scientific paper presents the study of effects of multicomponent systems of biodegradable polymers on the composition and physical-chemical characteristics of degraded or contamined soils (with a poor content of organic substances or subjected to a strong erosion process). The novelty resides in the theoretically-based practical indications regarding the rational application of complex polymeric products - biofertilizers - on various types of soil (sandy, salty, eroded, dumps etc.) depending on the requirements of soil remediation and nutrition specific to agricultural plants.
  
  KEY WORDS: biopolymer, protein wastes, tannery, polyelectrolytes, soil, dumps
  Read article
The Changes on Some Chemical Properties of Artificially Aged Garment Leathers
- Pages 25-32
  Nuray Olcay ISIK, Huseyin Ata KARAVANA*
  - Ege University, Engineering Faculty, Leather Engineering Department, 35100, Bornova-Izmir/Turkey, email: huseyin.ata.karavana@ege.edu.tr
  ABSTRACT. Aging is a process of reversible and/or irreversible structural change of material, which depends on structural characteristics and environmental factors. Heat, humidity, UV radiation, chemical effects and their causes in visible and invisible damages which lead to structural deteriorations and decreases in fastness are some factors that aging in leathers and leather products depends on. In this research, chromium (VI) and formaldehyde contents which resulted after artificial aging procedure in chrome, vegetable and semivegetable tanned garment leathers, caused by the chemical decomposition, have been investigated. Temperature, temperature/humidity and temperature/UV radiation have been chosen as aging factors. According to the findings, in finished garment leather samples, chromium (VI) and formaldehyde contents were higher than acceptable limits and aging conditions effective on level of increase have been investigated through ISO 17228 (2005) artificial aging procedure depending on temperature, humidity and UV radiation.
  
  KEY WORDS: garment leather, artificial aging, chromium (VI), formaldehyde
  Read article
The Influence of Some Technological Parameters on Tanning Sheep Furs Pickled Using Dicarboxylic Acids
- Pages 33-44
  Stelian Sergiu MAIER¹*, Viorica DESELNICU², Vasilica MAIER¹, Olga NICULESCU², Melinda PRUNEANU¹
  - ¹Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iași, 67 Dimitrie Mangeron Blvd., 700050, Iași, Romania, email: smaier@ch.tuiasi.ro
  - ²INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, 93 Ion Minulescu, 031215, Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. The paper presents a study on performances reached on tanning with chromium salts sheep furs previously pickled using dicarboxylic acids. Experiments have been conducted in two variants, with basification at the end of tanning and with acid correction before dosing basic chromium salts respectively. The second variant ensures a medium increase of shrinkage temperature of the dermis by 30°C, under the conditions of an offer of only 1.2 g / L Cr₂O₃.
  
  KEY WORDS: sheepskins, chromium tanning, pickling, dicarboxylic acids
  Read article
Children's Footwear - Health, Comfort, Fashion
- Pages 45-60
  Traian FOIASI*, Mirela PANTAZI
  - INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, Bucharest, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. Basic factors: health, comfort, fashion are indispensable in elaborating a high quality product to meet high consumer demands. Anthropometric studies in 3D system allow choosing the best solutions regarding quantification and selection of necessary parameters in elaborating the spatial structure of the last, which becomes the starting point in product design. Advanced technologies, whose increasing emphasis is on elaborating ecologic materials, in relation to studies in the field of medicine and biomechanics, lead to health and comfort for the foot. The multitude of materials, the characteristics they must meet, the method of combining pieces, anthropometric and biomechanics knowledge finally lead to ensuring the compatibility between foot and shoe. The influence that footwear has on the foot and on the feet of children in particular, in the growth and development phase, with repercussions on the entire organism, concerns both doctors and manufacturers equally, in order to create new assortments which correspond with the shape and anatomic dimensions of the foot and whose physical-mechanical characteristics must provide comfort, hygiene and appropriate microclimate. Design and stylistics studies make all the above be completed by visual and aesthetic impact, evoking emotion and joy.
  
  KEY WORDS: children's footwear, health, comfort, style, design
  Read article
Antimicrobial Treatment on Textile Surfaces
- Pages 61-66
  Gianina BROASCA*, Daniela FARIMA
  - Gh. Asachi University of Iasi, Faculty of Textiles & Leather Engineering and Industrial Management, 53 Dimitrie Mangeron Avenue, 700050, Iasi, Romania, email: d_farima@yahoo.com
  ABSTRACT. The paper presents the methods used in textile materials for antimicrobial treatment, factors influencing the quality of treatment with inorganic compounds. By using fibers with antimicrobial properties that eliminate the appearance of pathogenic bacteria, the personal and collective hygiene are improved. Therefore, new antimicrobial agents such as chitosan- and triclosan-based compounds, compounds based on quaternary ammonium salts, polymeric phosphonates, N-alamine compounds, which are deposited on the fiber during or after the process of spinning in rigorously controlled conditions. The active agent used in antimicrobial treatment may present itself in the form of microcapsules, microspheres, substances containing cyclic molecules. Depending on the product used and the method chosen for treatment, antimicrobial textiles may have the following characteristics: antimicrobial activity on a wide range of microorganisms, durability to wear and washing, lack of toxicity both for individuals and the environment.
  
  KEY WORDS: antimicrobial treatments, microorganisms, textiles, active agents
  Read article
Considerations on the Production of Oil Tanned Dressed Assortment
- Pages 67-78
  Enrico TABELLINI¹*, Domenico BARDIN¹, Gheorghe BOSTACA²
  - ¹S.C. MESI DANNY DAY S.R.L., Argeselu-Maracineni, Arges, Romania & MESI SPA Turin, Italy
  - ²INCDTP - Division: Leather and Footwear Research Institute, Bucharest, Romania, email: icpi@icpi.ro
  ABSTRACT. The paper provides a technical definition of the notion of oil tanned dressed skin, presents the area of use, characteristics of the assortment, raw material, as well as the technical conditions of producing it.
  
  KEY WORDS: oil tanned dressed, fish oil, drum, operations structure
  Read article